Custom and Ceremony
Although highland and coastal customs vary, ceremonial life at the Southern Coast is every bit as traditional as it is in the highlands. In the first place, both regions celebrate the same saints, on the same days. Secondly, while Catholic celebrations in the highlands seem to have lower turn-out each year, ceremonial life at the Coast continues as before. Religious processions, activities of religious brotherhoods, and Maya ceremonies are therefore an integral part of coastal life.
However, the seasonal round of festivals and religious fairs is relentless. Many towns celebrate their saint on his feast day but also celebrate again a week later. Likewise, every town celebrates Holy Week and Christmas Eve. Many towns also honor a secondary saint. But no matter who is a town´s patron saint, every town has brotherhoods dedicated to other saints. These saints too have their religious festivals.
Carnaval Mazateco
Despite similarities between regions, one coastal religious festival has no counterpart elsewhere in Guatemala: Carnaval of Mazatenango. Carnaval is a celebration of Fat Tuesday and therefore the beginning of Lent. Mazate’s Carnaval imitates larger, more famous celebrations such as Mardi Gras or Carnaval celebrations in Rio or Venice.. However, in Guatemala, Mazate’s Carnaval is unmatched. In other towns of the Republic, that day, school children fill egg shells with confetti and powder and bust them over people’s heads. However, just for fun sometimes, they use plain eggs.
The indigenous queen of Suchitepéquez, or Nim Ali Xochiltepec, traditionally leads the parade.. However, next come the departmental beauty queens adorned in lavish, yet skimpy outfits, which appear the work of Hollywood designers. What really identifies Carnaval Mazateco, however, are the groups of scantily-clad spokes models. They gyrate to rythyms a little less sophisticated than those of New Orleans or Rio, I’m afraid.
What predominates in Carnaval, however, are groups of school children parading. Some wear uniforms. However, others dress in Maya fashion. Likewise, some dress as Xinka or Garifuna, Guatemala´s two non-Maya indigenous groups. Still others imitate the spokes models. These school children come from throughout the Southern Coast to participate. Along the parade route, people squirt a lot of water. Some actually use hoses. Therefore, Carnaval is risky for cameras.
I used to attend Carnaval religiously. However, I now stay away. But not so much for the risk to my camera. It’s that today I devote myself more to cultural activities. Therefore, I reject the sexist appeal of the parade. I also consider that parades indoctrinate school children and therefore threaten the Maya culture. However, I’ve got to admit, Carnaval Mazateco is fun.
Normally I don´¡t shoot photographs without permission and therefore do not shoot street drunks. However, in this case with the town band of San Sebastián Retalhuleu, January 16th, I couldn´t resist,
This is a former indigenous queen of San Sebastián, who, however, was not able to complete her cargo. Her mother forced her to go to Miami with her to paint houses.
This is the indigenous side of the Dance of the Conquest in the Fair of San Sebastián. Although indigenous, the woman in the middle is the Malinche, the Marina who accompanied Cortéz in Mexico. She therefore supports the Spaniards and her name is synonymous with treachery.
Pyrotechnic dance in the Fair of the Virgin of Candelaria, Feb. 2nd in San Lorenzo, Suchitepéquez. However, the dancer is from San Bernardino.
The image of the Virgin of Candelaria in San Lorenzo, Suchitepéquez is one of Guatemala’s three virgins of pure silver, and therefore remains behind in the church. In addition to San Lorenzo’s image of pure silver are the Virgin of Candelaria of Chiantla Huehuetenango and the Virgin of Concepción of Samayac Suchitepéquez.
This is the Maya ceremony in the Fiesta of the Gran Iquís, Feb. 3rd in San Bernardino, Suchitepéquez. He is a character in the Dance of the Conquest, but to the kaqchiqueles he is known as brujo, shaman. or red.
The celebration for Carnaval Mazateco, Fat Tuesday in Mazatenango is imitation Rio do Janeiro, but it´s a good imitation.
Carnaval Mazateco
Normally I don’t like the Dance of the Convites, or dance of the disguises. However, en Samayac third Friday of Lent the outfits are incredible.. For example, look at thgis representation of Captain John Smith.
Or check out this Cleopatra also in Samayac on third Friday of Lent.
Dance of the Conquest in the Fair of San Bernardino, May 20th, San Bernardino, Suchitepéquez.
Although Doña Isabela attends fairs all over the Coast and highlands, this memory with her own priest in the Fair of San Antonio Suchitepéquez, June 13th, has to be one of her fondest.
A number of odd personages accompany the procession of Corpus Cristi (Body of Christ) in San Bernardino. For example: the iguana salesman.
They say there’s nothing racist about Los Shapos in Corpus Cristi,, San Bernardino, but I disagree.
Despite the clear racism of Los Shapos, their goofy antics are fun to watch. However, there is great danger when the pyramid collapses and the Shapos fall to the cement.
Here, for example,, Los Shapos criss-cross arms and catapult their smaller counterparts airborne.
This is the Fiesta of Aloc Mam (Mamximón) in San Bernardino. However, here it is celebrated one week early on the 21st of October.
